Star Trek Uniforms From Fashion Disasters to Gender Equality
You're listening to the
Companions audio articles, a new
series that features our best
stories on the companion. I'm
Rebecca Davis. I love Star Trek,
but I have always questioned
some of the design choices when
it came to the uniforms; the
miniskirts in the original
series, the seemingly impossible
next generation uniform help did
they get into that thing every
morning? Where are the pockets
to not carry things anymore in
the future, is wearing bright
primary colours on an away
mission really a good idea? The
following article gives some
great insight into the decisions
behind the uniforms, most
reflecting the current times.
Take a listen and decide for
yourself which trek era uniform
was the most practical, or just
simply the most stylish.
History of Starfleet uniforms
from fashion disasters to gender
equality, by Kaleigh Dray.
Whether mini skirts and calf
high boots or spandex and
shoulder pads, Star Trek
uniforms have always kept one
eye on today's fashion, as well
as tomorrow's it's all too easy
to assume that Star Trek aka the
same TV series, which is
primarily set in the future
ranging from the mid 22nd
century Star Trek Enterprise to
the 32nd century Star Trek
Discovery is as far removed from
contemporary fashion trends as
well as the M 33. Galaxy is from
Earth, which is in case you've
forgotten very, very far away.
Indeed, within 33 positions some
2.7 million light years away
from its previous position in
the Milky Way. It would take
enterprise some 300 years to
travel home from there at
maximum warp. As ever, though,
it seems to assume really is to
make an ass of you and me,
because Star Trek, and by which
I mean every single iteration of
that iconic Starfleet issue
jumpsuit has always been
incredibly on trend, every
single iteration. As Harriet
Hall fashion expert Lifestyle
Editor at the independent and
feminist author of she a
celebration of renegade women
tells me even in a futuristic
series like Star Trek,
contemporary trends in sales are
used to inspire the costumes she
adds. This helps to create a
believable and relatable
sartorial basis for the future,
allowing viewers to better
immerse themselves in it. Star
Trek The Original Series
uniforms. With Paul's comments
in mind, it makes sense as to
why the women of Star Trek The
Original Series decided to
boldly go where no other woman
on mainstream TV had gone
before. By which I mean of
course that they in William
Shatner's words, frequently
donned the quote, shorter skirts
on television. The 1960s marked
the beginning of youth culture
and the separation of teenagers
and young adults from their
parents generation in terms of
interests, music, and clothing
explains Hall. This feeling of
liberation and independence
through a rejection of the
stringent conformity of their
parents generation became known
as the youthquake. And in the
fashion world, this was
reflected in a bubble up
approach to fashion, where
trends no longer trickled down
from the catwalk. Instead,
teenagers opted for identity
shaping styles which can be
easily made at home using simple
patterns. at the vanguard of
this was British designer Mary
Quant, who made simple mini
shift dresses inspired by the
carefree styles of children's
wear, complete with Little Peter
Pan collars and bold graphic
prints. And her King's Row
boutique bazaar quickly became
the locus for trendy young women
wanting to express their sexual
liberation through incredibly
short mini skirts and thigh high
boots. In the years since the
series first aired, of course,
it's become all too apparent
that NBC requested the shows
female stars were decked out in
revealing costumes, a revelation
which has prompted many to look
back on the series with barely
concealed scorn for its hyper
sexualization of women. However,
it's worth noting that Nichelle
Nichols, who played Nyota Uhura
in the series, has publicly
dismissed those that have
suggested she was forced into
wearing anything unusually short
or revealing. Indeed, much as
Hall has explained already,
Nichols told the BBC that she
was already wearing very short
miniskirts on the street. What's
wrong with wearing them on the
air? I wore him on aeroplanes.
It was the era of the miniskirt.
Everybody wore miniskirts? While
the women of Star Trek The
Original Series Dawn simplistic
quant like tailoring and thigh
high hem lines. The men Shatner
included Don brightly coloured
and extremely skin tight nylon
shirts and charcoal slacks. It's
all about the subtle detailing
here says Hall noting that the
men's mod haircuts were likely
inspired by those worn by the
decades most famous heartthrobs
The Beatles. Look at those
slight V necks and that gold
trim she continues These were
used to inject a more futuristic
twist and a slightly other
aesthetic to the Starfleet
uniform so that it doesn't feel
too grounded in reality. Star
Trek The Next Generation
uniforms if you thought the
Starfleet uniforms of Star Trek
The Original Series were
revealing. Take another gander
at the costumes worn in Star
Trek The Next Generation.
Crafted from spandex these one
piece suits were famously made
to be one size too small,
ostensibly for a smoother line
on camera, and with no pockets,
which, when you're seeking out
new life and new civilizations
is about as useful as a
chocolate teapot. We hated our
spacesuits Geordi LaForge actor
LeVar Burton famously declared,
as much as they call it a
stretch fabric spandex and that
configuration doesn't give all
that much it hid nothing. After
two seasons of misery, the
costume designers eventually
swapped the spandex for a more
forgiving woollen material.
Still, though they kept
silhouettes tight and shoulder
seriously padded. The result a
sort of inverted triangle
silhouette, one which had become
synonymous with the 80s. This
was the same decade in which
many women stepped out of the
secretarial pool and enter the
boardroom says Hall, and they
did so wearing bold power
shoulders to exert their
presence among the male
dominated workplaces. It wasn't
just big shoulders and power
dressing which influenced Star
Trek The Next Generation
uniforms though, as Hall points
out, the 1980s was also a time
in which dance and aerobics
dominated. Whoopi Goldberg looks
like the ultimate disco queen in
her shining crushed velvet and a
futuristic hat that we can only
imagine would be nothing but
impractical in space. Meanwhile,
the body con leotards worn by
Marina Sirtis' Deanna Troi look
as if they were pulled straight
out of the popular Pineapple
Dance Studio in Covent Garden.
Close your eyes and imagine that
Star Trek The Next Generation
uniform again, I know what
you're thinking read for command
gold for operations, blue for
sciences, raise colours and rank
insignia on the neckline. So
far, so sci fi right. But as
Hall points out, these uniforms
were a twist on the hyper
tailored Nehru jacket, a style
first popularised by the Indian
Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru.
This reflects the increasing
globalisation of fashion during
the ad she says, reminding me
that the decade was thanks to
the stock exchange and leaders
such as Reagan and Thatcher, an
era of boom in which wealth was
privatised, and many experienced
disposable incomes. Mind you,
Star Trek has evolved the
classic never look into
something more befitting a
gymnast at the 1980 Olympics
says Harriet Hall Star Trek Deep
Space Nine uniforms. We all know
that Star Trek Deep Space Nine
is darker and grittier than the
other Star Trek shows that came
before it. So it makes sense
that these hope punk vibes are
reflected in its twist on the
Starfleet uniform. more
utilitarian than anything worn
by the Star Trek The Original
Series in Star Trek The Next
Generation crew. The officers of
Star Trek Deep Space Nine opted
for mostly black jumpsuits, with
only the shoulders in red for
command gold for operations and
blue for sciences. The material
was loose enough that they were
able to roll their sleeves up.
Can you even imagine Miles
O'Brien with his sleeves rolled
down and they often flash their
dystopian great undershirts to
commenting on how these pared
down styles reflected
contemporary fashions at the
time. Hall says in the West, the
1990s opened with economic
crisis, which led to a
recession, unemployment and
rioting. This discontent marked
and abrupt into a decade that
saw gluttony for many and
people's attitudes to wealth
changed dramatically. In the
fashion world. This manifested
as a staunch rejection of
displays of wealth and dress
down anti fashion and
inconspicuous consumption became
the norm with designers such as
Norma Comala, Donna Karan,
Miuccia Prada and Calvin Klein,
all opting for low key
minimalist sportswear and in
much darker colours. Star Trek
Enterprise uniforms Star Trek
fandom may have taken a somewhat
dim view of its enterprising
prequel, but there's no denying
that the series has its plus
points. And no, we're not just
talking about Scott Bakula,
Jolene Blalock and that oh, so
divisive earworm of a theme
tune. We also mean genuinely is
thoroughly modern twist on the
standard Starfleet issue
jumpsuit. Gone were the brightly
coloured numbers we'd come to
know and love over the years.
Instead Captain Archer and his
crew the first humans
incidentally to boldly go where
no other had gone before. opted
for functional blue jumpsuits,
all of which featured a coloured
piping on the shoulders to show
off which division it's were
belong to be assignment badges
on the sleeve. See, similarly
form fitting silhouettes for
both men and women and D plenty
of useful details such as
zippers and pockets galore.
Speaking to the official Star
Trek web sight, Emmy Award
winning costume designer Robert
Blackman, notice that he looked
to none other than NASA for
inspiration. I had spent at that
point 12 years trying to make
the Star Trek uniform look like
you didn't know how the
Starfleet officer got into it,
that they were just wearing it.
So I said, there's going to be
zippers, there's going to be
pockets, there will be things
for equipment. He adds there
were 13 zippers and each one of
those uniforms. There were
zippers to nowhere in a way,
some of them sewn down with a
zipper so that you could never
get anything into it, but it
just made the characters look a
little bit more like cowboys in space.
It definitely had a much more
masculine and rough edge to it.
There was nothing spandex II or
woolly about it. Finally, women
seem to be wearing practical
clothes and space says hall when
I slide her a photo of the
uniforms worn in Star Trek
Enterprise is the 2000s which
means we're post millennium. So
gender equality, not to mention
women in the workplace is firmly
the norm at this point. It looks
like Star Trek has reflected
their equal standing as
astronauts rather than a
decoration in space Hall
continues. These boiler suits
are more utility wear than
anything we've seen so far and
they have been paired with Loki
makeup and no jewellery. This
reflects the more fluid approach
to gender through those
androgynous styles that became
the norm in the 2000s. Still on
the subject of Star Trek
Enterprise Hall explains that it
was likely influenced by the
fact that noddies fashion was
hit hard by yet another
recession. The late 2000s saw
the Lehman Brothers filed for
bankruptcy leading to the 2008
credit crunch she tells me this
led to another rejection of
opulent styles, the result of
which was that very low key
practical Styles begin to creep
through in the fashion world.
jumpsuits were very trendy at
the time with women loving the
Rosie the Riveter feminist vibes
they got from wearing them. This
aligned with the rise of
feminism is fourth wave in 2011.
Star Trek discoveries uniforms
just when we thought we knew
what to expect from Star Trek
and its utopian take on
humanity's future Star Trek
Discovery came roaring onto our
screens in 2017. And it shook up
everything in the best possible
way. The series of course
featured yet another twist on
the Star Trek The Original
Series uniform. This time
designed by the inimitable
gursha Phillips, speaking to
Shawn DeLand, the award winning
designer has described how she
drew inspiration for both high
end fashion designers, such as
Alexander McQueen, and Iris van
Herpen, and athletic brands,
Nike and Lululemon to create
gender free looks meant to
convey power, no matter who is
wearing them. There are so many
different options for how we can
look at what we're doing for the
future. Phillips adds a
statement which he expands in a
separate interview with
comicbook.com. My idea basically
was to come up with something
that looked futuristic,
interesting, and just pushing
the envelope here and there a
bit. She says, That was always
the goal. And it's such a hard
line, because for me personally,
one of the things I really want
to be able to do or have other
people do is when they look back
on this, that it still
resonates, it still looks good
in the future. It's like when
you watch Blade Runner, the
original one, I still believe it
because of the way that the
costumes are so great in it, you
can accept it as the future.
There's different versions of
that as well out there. You
know, there's different versions
of you know, I think this
element does a similar thing,
but in a very different way. And
Prometheus, there's so many
different versions of the future
now out there that we're
competing with. Philips of
course leans into the sort of
future that boasts another all
blue uniform. Not a one piece
this time though, but a jacket
and trousers with metallic
stripes to indicate divisions,
gold for command. So we're for
sciences and copper for
operations. I guess the US Navy
comes through as inspiration
more in the colour than anything
else, she says. Because there
was a point when we were working
the colours and I was asked,
What would I do with the uniform
and I started looking at the
Navy and thinking, I think that
we should use one colour and
come up with a different way of
signifying our departments. A
fan of the new look, Hall says,
I can see a real turning point
in terms of gender equality and
costumes here, which again
reflects the era. The Women's
outfits are still subtly more
fitted than the men's at the
waist. But the fact they're all
in identical looks is a welcome
change. No more mini skirts in
space. You feel they could
really take on an alien planet
should they need to. Noting that
the uniform has leaned hard into
27 teens athleisure trend Hall
adds these costumes are clearly
inspired by leather racing biker
outfits, and the gold detailing
with the lapis blue suits
elevate them to something not
unlike a futuristic twist on a
Formula One racing suit. Star
Trek Discovery's uniforms season
four of course, the Star Trek
Discovery uniform has shifted a
fair bit over its four season
run working from blue to grey to
a far brighter and more
colourful look. One which feels
far more informed by the costume
scene and start Trek The Next
Generation in Star Trek The
Original Series. When we shot
the last episode of season
three, we realised that the
uniforms matched the ship, the
walls of the bridge Phillips
tells we got this covered.com
That was the impetus for
creating these new colours and
so we spent a lot of the
beginning of the season trying
to come up with the best
combinations of them. The end
result is a bridge full of
colour with red, blue and gold
featuring more prominently in
the designs. I kind of wish we
had thought about that sooner
Philip says, but it did take
looking at that and seeing sneak
when Martin greens head almost
looked like it was floating on
the captain's chair to realise
that for us. Martin Green who
describes Philips mind as
kaleidoscope of brilliance says
I love being in command read I
think that it's bold, the first
black woman to lead a Star Trek
series ads. I also love the
slight shift in hairstyle
because now I have these
individual braids which I
thought really spoke to the
sense of ease and security which
has finally come from maturation
and from finally sitting in that
chair. Star Trek Picard uniforms
on the surface the costume scene
in Star Trek Picard hearken back
to the Star Trek Deep Space Nine
look. Yes, the Starfleet
uniforms of Picard is relative
present are mostly black, but
they have the standard Star Trek
The Next Generation division of
colours on the shoulders and
collar. Speaking at Gold
derbies, meet the BTL experts
costume design panel. However,
Picard is costume designer
Christine Veselin Clark says
that she was challenged with
veering away from the kind of
sci fi futuristic kind of cold
this that Star Trek fans are
used to. It's a much more
humanised grounded for lack of
better word interpretation. She
says noting that Patrick
Stewart's Picard begins the
series in retirement on an earth
based vineyard, which means yes,
he wears a lot of lovely
knitwear and turtlenecks and
cosy green and red hues. I think
oftentimes synthetic becomes the
old reliable in sci fi says
Clark, but because Picard is a
lover of history, and an
archivist and a reader of paper
books, even in 2400, we really
wanted to keep a hold of a lot
of the natural materials. We
eventually get into lots of
synthetics when he goes to
space, but we transition we made
almost everything that Patrick
wears in this series. In the
beginning Yes, it was very much
grounded in natural materials,
cotton wool linens, and doing
blends of those. Because of the
ability to create depth of
colour and get textures and
mixtures of those things without
that glossy feeling. Those
materials are definitely the
best and they have an old world
feeling. Commenting on the new
Star Trek colour palette Hall
says these have changed
dramatically from the bright
reds and golds of the 1960s and
garish 1980s. Lux to more muted
blacks, greys and browns. It's
suggestive of a dystopian future
one which alarmingly rings true
with our current timeline of
pandemic climate crisis and
rising cost of living struggles.
The future now is to protect
rather than adventure it seems.
Clark says she made a point of
using natural materials and
silhouettes for every character
in Picard moving away from the
hyper sexualized catsuits and
instead attempting to show power
and strength in other ways. We
didn't want to feel so distant
from these characters that they
were so far in the future that
we couldn't be emotionally
connected to them she adds. It's
an instantly noticeable shift
and one which Hall absolutely
approves of both from a feminist
and a fashion insider's
perspective. We moved on from
men and women wearing starkly
different looks than equalising
through identical uniforms and
now we see a balance of power in
Picard. She says the men are
still wearing navy blue collars,
which is a nice continuation of
the Star Trek style from decades
ago. But now they're
incorporating biker jacket
styles for the men and women
designs which wouldn't feel out
of place on a Balenciaga catwalk
and some more office style looks
for the women including black
shift dresses and layered polos.
It feels a bit like we've moved
away from the impossibly
futuristic to something more
edgy and cool in a way that is
seeking to almost normalise the
space fashion. It suggests that
any of us can be these
astronauts, which is hugely
appropriate for a time in which
the first commercial flights are
going into space. So where will
Star Trek take us next? As ever,
the future remains unknown. But
we've no doubt whatsoever that
the Starfleet crew and their
costume designers will continue
to boldly take us where no one
has gone before. Well, no one
except for contemporary fashion
designers of course. The
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